Tours in Seville Spain - The Jewish Quarter

On our second day in Sevilla, we joined Pancho Tours, sunset tour. It was a
chilly night and we ventured into the Jewish Quarter, or Santa Cruz, which is
known to be at least a few degrees colder than the rest of Sevilla.

The Quarter was built as a labyrinth of tiny streets and alleys, that helps keep
out the sun, and the Christians during the rule of King Ferdinand the 3rd. We were
shepherded through this now touristy area, and fed the most romantic, and horrid
stories that I have ever heard.

Two of the most popular streets, when you first enter Santa Cruz are called
Muerte, or Death, and Vida, or Life. During the time of the Black Death, when
many Christians were getting sick it was thought that the Jewish community was
to blame. The Christians laid siege on the community, hoping to scare them away
from Sevilla. In one night the killed 4000 Jews on Calle Muerte, the survivors
escaped by taking Calle Vida, and hiding in Alcazar.

Many of the streets have 3 or more names, for instance, Calle Muerte is also called
Calle Susona, and Calle Cadenas, which means chains. The story we were told,
is that years after the siege a man named Suso Diego, planned his revenge on the
Christians. Suso Diego had a daughter named Susona, who was at the time having
an affair with a young Christian Soldier. Susona told her father’s plans to her
lover, and thus thwarted his plans, and lead to the capture and murder of her entire
family.

As punishment to Susona, they left her alive to live with her guilt of betraying
her family, and her community. Years later, she returned to her family home, and
hung herself from her balcony with a chain. She left a note saying as retribution,
she wanted her head to be displayed in a window on the street, so everyone could
see her guilt and shame. Her skull stood as a monument for 106 years, before it
was removed, and replaced with an image of her skull, which can be seen today.

Not all the stories of Santa Cruz are as dark, we also heard of local artists, kissing
neighbours from balconies, and a King who planted thousands of orange trees,
to please his bride who wanted to see snow. Late April in Sevilla is said to be
the most beautiful time to visit, because all the orange trees blossom, and leave a
blanket of white petals on the streets, as close to snow as Sevilla will ever get.

Thanks again Pancho Tours, and Anya our guide. It may have been a cold night,
but we were left with the knowledge of such a rich and extensive history, it won’t
be one we will forget any time soon.

Many more adventures to come!